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The head. |
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Was apply our head shape for doggie projects. The sweeps are shown below: the yellow dotted line of the pattern is the line of symmetry of the head, and the green line shows the place where the will be glue for ear.
The workpiece is glued from foam polyethylene, with a steel frame at the edges, so it has a light weight, perfectly preserves and restores the shape.
The jaw is made for opening and can be remove.
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Рasting the head by fur. |
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Before gluing the fur on the blank of head, we check and correct the color of the character's head in the graphics editor (the fur dorisovyvaetsya over the photo basis). And if everything looks well we start to get the patterns of fur. For do this the mask is pasted with adhesive tape in several layers and all this is drawn according to the chosen color of the character. The scotch is cut into pieces and flattened on a plane - it will give the recesses that give the volume after sewing are obtained. Further we sew fur pieces and this turns to "skin". The edges of the fur near the eyes and mouth are bent and sutured so that the "torn" tissue base of the artificial fur is not visible.
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Unfortunately, In this project the process of pasting with fur was not photographed in detail.
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The nose. |
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The nose is raised relative to the base of the mask with help the same material as the head, but it more subtle. The nose is soft and covered with fleece. The method of obtaining the patterns for fleece - in the photo.
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Pasting by fleece inside of head. |
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Stages of work:
1. Adhesive strips of fleece edges of the jaw, mask and eyes.
2. Further we get a pattern of the inner part of head, pasting it with adhesive tape. 3. We translate on fleece obtained pattern from scotch; cut and sewed; further we paste immediately a large area inside the mask. 4. Set the eyes-box, afterwards we do scan of patterns for fleece, that is we paste this place with scotch tape. 5. The base of the eyes do pasted by fleece. The photo below shows the pads: two of them behind the ears of fursuiter to create a place for the jaw of the mask, and one on the forehead. All pads are removable and can be shifted to some extent to adjust the best fit of the mask on the head. |
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The eyes. |
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The eyes at the blank of the head carcass are supported by steel wire, and it responsible for strength of eyes. To make the eyes look the same, we make their frame on pattern from thick plastic. The frame of eyes consists of one solid wire, which also passes over the cheek of the mask and is fixed by a bend on the occipital part of the skeleton. Thus, this skeleton in addition to the eyes also supports the shape of the cheeks, and allows you to adjust the "width" of the head, and the bend of the transition from the corners of the eyes to the cheeks.
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The size of the eye in the form of a skeleton is chosen more in size. This is to take into account for pasting by a thick "double" fleece: this will reduce the size of the eyes by about 4 millimeters, and equalize the small irregularities.
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The eyes are made with the effect of "tracking". Their boxes are assembled from 3 mm white plastic. Between the boxs of the eyes there is a "hollow" for the nose of the fursuiter. The iris and pupil of the eyes are drawn with waterproof acrylic on the banner grid. Inside the head, the boxs of eyes is covered with a fleece.
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Apron for the head. |
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To make an apron correctly you need to get good patterns. It is done by pasting scotch tape over of the required place, namely, the part of the mask, which is clad on a person with good big shoulders (preferably). In our design, the apron consists of two parts: the front and the back. In this project on the front apron there are strips of fur of different colors. And to be better kept different colors of furs in the desired position relative to the overalls, the front and back aprons are fixed to each other with buttons. An apron which the consisting of two parts allows you not to use the zipper on the back of the head, which makes it easier to dress the mask. To keep the neck profile, the rear apron contains a small zone with a tightening with textile elastic bands. The back apron covers the neck and fastens on a robust large button under the front apron.
The jaw can be completely removed together with the front apron, this allows you to get good access to the inside of the finished mask, for example for quick drying. |
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As a result, you should get a pattern like in the photo. Later it will be divided into patterns for the front and back apron.
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Ventilation. |
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In the mouth installed large 3,2" fan. This fan allows you to maintain good performance while still remaining quiet. The 12 volt fan runs at half the possible speed from the popular USB-pawer banks of 5 volts. Although, nothing prevents using a voltage-boosting "adapter". Then, in mask will be colder than without it.
If necessary (washing) the fan is easy to remove. Its position inside the mouth can also be easily changed and tuned. The side gaskets around the fan prevent the warm air from flowing back into the mask and keep the fan inside the mouth well. When fan is installed, the jaw remains slightly ajar for pass of warm air without the constant voltage of the jaws of a fursuiter. The design of mask provides for a large ventilation gap: the air flows freely from the holes in the base of the mask's ears to mouth - is the flow of air by sides head of fursuiter. |
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The fan as "spacer" for the jaws in the sides - it is well held by friction, so it is left without a rigid attachment and can be adjusted to any convenient position.
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Paws. |
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The basis for feetpaws is a frame made of foam rubber, due to this they are suitable for a wide range of sizes (for US is from 7 to 12). For more comfort inside the feetpaws was glued fleece sock, which can be turned outwards for drying or washing.
This project have one pair of feetpaws - with a rubber sole for the street. |
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Rubber outsole is glued and stitched along the edge with strong threads.
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Handpaws are made with soft padded pads, and soft claws of gray fleece. They are sewn on the sewing machine by a covering seam.
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Overalls. |
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The overall of the fursuit was made with a low waist, i.e. it can be worn in two versions (see photo). Also, such sewing opens up the possibility not to take into account the growth of fursuiter (only if it is not particularly small). Overalls are sewn with a large reserve in width, and then it is compensated by sewing textile band. Thus, this is fursuit is well suited for people of absolutely different sizes. And, to the overall looked neater and more clearly it was shaved.
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Padded overalls. |
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The shape of the fursuit is given by the pads. We make detachable pads from a very stretchable fabric with filling by synthon. This makes it easy to remove pads and clean them separately from the overalls (or vice versa). In addition, they have very low weight relative to the foam liners, and are well compressed during transport.
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The jumper for overall |
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In order for the overalls to sit "like a glove" in a wide range of a fursuiter sizes, it is desirable to sewing it with a textile band.
And a bit photo, about how it is done: |
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The tail. |
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The tail is made as detachable with a removable skin to facilitate the process of its drying after washing (in most cases it is enough to wash only the fur part of the tail). Its attachment to the belt is provided by loops from a durable nylon cable, which are sewn to the strong tail frame. In the overalls have a small sleeve is provided for the tail - this conceals and ensures the smoothness of the place of transition from the body to the tail.
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Go to the full description of Fursuit